Stainless steel mosaic tile installation


















Never use Ceramic Tile Mastic for the installation of stainless steel, aluminum, and glass mosaic tiles. Use a thinset modified with polymer or latex, compliant with ANSI Start placing the mosaic tile sheets to the wall. Begin your installation at the most visible part of the wall and work outwards from there. That is a safe way to guarantee that the most visually exposed part of the wall is well centered. Use a rubber grout float on the tile sheets to apply light and even pressure to ensure grip with the adhesive.

It usually takes about 24 hours. You are going to need a tile wet saw with the appropriate blade for cutting metal. Before start cutting, protect your eyes, and cutting must be performed slowly to avoid the buildup of high temperatures, which could discolor the surface of the tile. Apply the grout with a rubber grout float working diagonally across the tile.

Force grout into the joints until they are full. Use a grout float to take off any excess grout. DO NOT use sanded grout as it may scratch the surface of the stainless steel tiles. To remove excess grout, and clean any haze from the surface of the tile use a damp sponge. The end user is responsible for determining the acceptability of the product. Installation constitutes acceptance of tile order. The handmade character of mosaic tile creates a degree of artistic variation in shade, color, tone, and size within each sheet of tile.

Open and inspect each carton of tile to confirm shading consistency. Randomly select 5 sheets from different cartons to establish color control during installation. Before installing tile, blend sheets from different cartons to assure random placement during installation. As sheets are being installed, check them against control samples prior to placing them in the setting material to assure acceptable shade variations and quality.

Bravotti's mosaics come in standard 12" x 12" sheets, individually labeled with an easy to follow corresponding installation guide, for a simple installation. This typically consists of rolling or spraying a liquid, rubber membrane onto the uniform surface prior to mosaic installation. NOTE: Be sure to account for the spaces between each sheet of tile when measuring.

NOTE: The space between each sheet of tile should equal the space between each individual tile. Expansion joints should be installed at all "changes in plane" of the mosaic and where the mosaic meets an adjoining surface, such as in a corner. Fill these spaces with a silicone caulking sealant in place of grout to create expansion joints at these locations. NOTE: Cleaning methods vary based upon the type of grout used in the installation. For example, a urethane grout must be cleaned earlier and more frequently that cementitious grout.

After the tiles have been installed, to remove the paper, apply a moderately wet sponge to the paper, allowing the water to soak through and dissolve the glue.

Warm water dissolves quicker than cold. Paper should be wet for removal only at time that it will actually be removed. If paper is wet for removal, but then dries again without having been removed from the tile it is VERY difficult to remove upon wetting it again. Starting at the corners, peel the paper from the tile.

If tile comes up during this process, allow setting material to set a little longer. Once paper is removed make any tile alignment adjustments while the setting material is fresh.

Once all film-mounted sheets are installed into setting material, creating small pinholes or slits in the film improves the breathing and setting up process. Once setting material has set up, remove the film by pulling it from the tile, starting at the corners and pulling downward. If tile comes up during this process, allow setting material to set longer. Once film is removed make any tile alignment adjustments while the setting material is fresh. Grout color plays a major role in the final appearance of any glass mosaic tile job and should be selected carefully.

Grout color that contrasts with the tile color tends to create a "frame" around each tile. If in doubt, please consult your tile installer or the dealer from which you purchased the setting materials. We make no representations as to the fitness for purpose of third party mortars and grouts.

A rubber grout float. Two or three buckets, for water mixing the mortar and grout. Most stainless steel is a ceramic base with a metal cap, not solid steel. Using the V-notched side of the trowel apply adhesive to created a uniform level and give the tile something to grip to. Place the tile sheets onto the wall or floor, lightly pressing down into the adhesive.

Your tile sheet may or may not have a paper cover. Continue to apply other sheets of tile next to each other, lining up the grout lines accordingly. You may also need to cut individual tiles to fit. To ensure each sheet is at the same level as the next, you can lightly tap a wood block on top of the sheets of tile near the edges.

Step 6 Step 7 Step 8 Step 9 Step 10 If your tile is covered in a protective paper covering, wet it and then peel it off. If your tile is covered in protective plastic, simply peel the plastic off. Make final adjustments to each sheet to ensure the joints line up correctly.

This needs to be done before the adhesive dries. After hours, use a non abrasive brush or sponge to remove excess adhesive or paper that is still on the tile. Then wipe with a damp sponge. Prepare your non sanded grout or epoxy grout as instructed on the package. Then apply with a rubber grout float, forcing grout into the joints until they are full.

This may have to be done 3 or 4 times to remove the residue.



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