Snap a chalk line between each of the two opposing walls to create a cross pattern. Without mortar or grout, lay out tiles and tile spacers in a line on each arm of the cross. The idea is to avoid having small, cut tiles against a wall, as this can be visually jarring. Shift this cross-like assembly in any direction, so that any tile that borders a wall is as close as possible to being a half tile or larger. When you pick up the tile, carefully stack the pieces so that you can keep track of which tiles go where.
Pick up a small batch of thinset mortar with your margin trowel or with the flat side of your notched trowel and deposit the thinset on the cement board.
Holding the flat side of your notched tile trowel at a degree angle, spread the mortar across the surface until it covers an area extending beyond the perimeter of a tile. Switch to the notched side of the same trowel and, again holding it at a degree angle and pressing firmly to the cement board, comb the thinset by pulling the trowel in straight lines. The notches in the trowel automatically regulate the amount of thinset deposited on the surface.
Gently press the tile into the wet thinset, twisting the tile back and forth to press it deeper into the thinset. Your aim is to collapse any ridges in the mortar and fill in gaps. Occasionally lift a tile and check the back to ensure full coverage. As you progress from one tile to the next, place tile spacers at the corners to maintain consistent spacing.
Do not add mortar to these gaps. Lay the bubble level across multiple tiles to check for both level and to eliminate lippage from one tile to the next. Lightly tap the tiles with the rubber mallet to level them.
For cutting only a few tiles, a rail tile cutter can inexpensively and effectively snap apart tiles. Place the uneven, snapped sides against the wall, where baseboards will cover them.
Buy or rent a wet tile saw for perfectly straight cuts. Use the tile nipper only for cutting around pipes, toilet bases, and for other non-linear cuts. Always wear safety glasses with any mode of tile cutting to protect your eyes against flying shards. After removing the tile spacers, use the rubber float to press the grout into the tile seams. Work in small sections. Then, holding the float at a degree angle, firmly draw the long edge of the float across the tile seam. I'd be; 1- Dopeslapping the grandkids 2- Using Latipoxy or Gorilla gel epoxy to set the towel holder, tape into place or hold it while it sets.
Or better yet, make one of them hold it while the epoxy cures. Old school is plaster of Paristhe white unsanded grout is pretty much the same without the speed :tup1: has a nice stickiness and tack to it. Brian I took back the stuff suggested by Home Depot and Lowes and tried to buy 5 lbs. They only had it in a 10lb. Will the white dry work?
I also sfuffed newspaper into the drywall hole at the bottom, so the grout blob will not fall down into the hollow wall opening. Is this what you meant? Thanks for all your advice and for the other replies I've received. Wes, If the ceramic towel rod is attached to the drywall using a metal bracket that the ends attach to disregard my former suggestion. Screw through the DW to secure the ply. Patch DW, paint, and remount the bracket and towel rod.
Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Make sure your wall is ready to go. Once you've removed the current wall dressings and wall items, like light switch covers, you'll want to check the base layer that you will be building on to make sure that it is structurally sound.
This is important, since a rotting or weak wall can cause your tiling job to warp, crack, or even break and fall down. Look for signs of mold or damage to the tiling surface. Cracks are often a sign that a wall may be weak and need to be replaced. Try pressing on the wall, especially at the studs. If it gives way or feels soft, it may require work.
If you are going to be tiling a large area, remember to use tiling board as a backer and not just put the tiles directly onto drywall. Use a level and tape to measure for your tile locations. Now, using a level and measuring tape, measure and mark for the middle lines in the area you will be tiling. Never assume a fixture in the room like the tub or vanity or even the ceiling is perfectly level.
They rarely are. It is very important to rely on the level. Mark the locations on the wall using a chalk line. Using a chalk snap line, mark the mid-line and vertical lines which you just measured. If you've never used a chalk snap line before, don't worry: it's easy. Simply place a nail at one end of the space you marked, attach the string, pull it taut and snap it down. This will leave a straight line on your wall. You'll still want to check it for level but it's much more accurate than drawing a line.
You can use just regular string and manually chalk it to make a chalk line. Dry fit and then cut tiles to size using a diamond wet saw. Dry fit your tiles to be sure that they will look the way you want them to look. Once you're comfortable with how it looks, figure out how the tiles will meet up with the corners and edges of your wall. You will probably need only a part of a tile when it comes to some of these areas, so it will be necessary to cut the tiles to size.
Measure how much space you need for each row with the spaces and cut tiles to size using a diamond tipped wet saw.
So, for example, let's say your wall to tile is five feet long. You'll need 9. You can also use a tile cutter, but this is more likely to end in broken tiles so only take this option if using cheaper tiles. You don't want to make a mistake or have to spend a lot of time thinking about it once the mortar is up on your wall.
You can test your dry fit pattern by making a layout stick, which can be made from any straight and level piece of spare wood. Lay the tiles on a floor and mark the layout stick with a pencil at the joints between tiles. Use the layout stick to see how the tiles fit on the wall. Install a batten to keep your first row straight. With everything else ready to go, you'll want to install a batten to help keep your tile rows straight. This is a piece of scrap wood, such as a piece of 1x4 lumber, that you use as a long straight-edge, placing the first row of tiles right against the batten.
Align the top edge of the wood so that it follows exactly along the mid-level line that you marked, then screw it into the studs. Once the tiles have been placed, simply unscrew and remove the batten.
Double check that everything is level before installing the tiles on the batten. You'll also want to check it all the way across, since there may be dips in the wood you use for your batten. Part 2.
Mix the mortar. You'll need thin set mortar to lay your tiles. While you should always go by the manufacturer's instructions, a general rule of thumb is to start with the powder in a bucket and just add water slowly and mix until the consistency of the mortar becomes like peanut butter. You should also allow it to "slake" after you first mix it up. This means you allow it to rest for minutes and then stir it up again. Now it is ready to use. Spread the mortar.
Working in a roughly 2x3' [6] X Research source area, use a tiling trowel to apply the mortar. Hold the notched trowel at a shallow angle against the wall, so that the notches on one of its long sides dig grooves into the mortar. Use long, sweeping motions to apply the mortar. Your trowel size will depend on the size and type of tile you're using. For the average small wall tiles which are currently popular, you will want to use a 1x4" square notch trowel.
Test a tile to make sure the mortar is mixed and spread correctly. Mortar a small spot and then place a tile. Pull the tile up and look at the pattern that is create on the back. If you see clear lines, then the mortar is too dry. If you see goopy mounds then the mortar is too wet. Place your tiles on the wall.
With the mortar ready to go, you can start placing your tiles.
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